Monday 29 August 2011

Hill climbs in Flintshire: Middle Mill Road

In the previous blog I wrote about some of the best hill climbs to test the adventurous cyclist. One of my favourites is a climb that starts just outside Northop on the old A55 and ends up in Rhosesmor by the Blue Bell Inn. It is hardly Alpine in scale, but the geography is markedly different at the top  compared to the pastoral landscapes at the foot of the climb. The height gained is only around 400 feet, but that does not tell the whole story of the climb. The ascent is not continuous, but rather a series of steep sections followed by plateaux, or even short descents. It took me around 16 minutes to complete earlier today. However I enjoy this climb not for the challenge it presents (which is not great for a decent rider) but for the varied topography and splendid views over Liverpool Bay. The terrain at the top of the climb which has been shaped by centuries of lead mining is equally fascinating.

The only way is up.

Sunday 28 August 2011

A wheeler’s paradise: cycling in north east Wales




Anthony Hunt’s excellent article (Riding High) on the growth of cycling in Wales, made special reference to south east region; in doing so he has inspired me to consider the state of the sport in my corner of the country. Over the past month or so during my staycation I have pedalled well over 1000 kilometres exclusively in Flintshire and Denbighshire; it has been little short of paradise.

On any given Friday during the summer months stand near the A55 and you will see hundreds of bicycles heading into Wales. All are mounted on motor cars destined, I imagine, for Snowdonia, Anglesey, or the Lleyn. They rarely stop in north east Wales, yet if they did they would discover a cycling paradise.

Apart from the A55 itself, and one or two busy trunk roads, there are hundreds of miles of quiet lanes to explore, with some challenging hill climbs. Cycle clubs from Merseyside and beyond certainly know the delights of cycling in this region as hundreds of wheelers head this way each Sunday. Indeed the annual Wild Wales cycle challenge organised by the Merseyside branch of the Cycle Touring Club draws hundreds of cyclists to Bala during the August Bank Holiday weekend.

There has been significant investment in cycling across the region. The coastal cycle path is well-advanced linking Chester via the Dee cycle track to the north Wales coastal towns. In Rhyl earlier this summer I witnessed the opening of the Marsh Tracks outdoor road cycling track. It is a 1.3km circuit that hosts numerous races for riders of all ages (http://www.marshtracks.co.uk/). In addition there is a high quality BMX track. All of this makes a fine memorial to those Rhyl riders that died in 2006 when Britain’s worst cycling accident took place only a mile or so from the newly built track.

Mountain biking is also well-catered for in north east Wales. The jewel in the crown for the fat tyre brigade is the Llandegla mountain bike centre (http://www.oneplanetadventure.com/). It has a number of graded tracks culminating in the feared black route; it is an extremely popular facility, and not just because the café at Llandegla makes world class bacon sandwiches. Away from Llandegla there are numerous mountain biking opportunities on the Clwydian hills; these are best covered in http://www.ridetheclwyds.com/ .

The investments made in cycling infra-structure are wholly welcome and reflects the ‘explosion’ in cycling that Anthony Hunt referred to in his article. However for me part of the joy gained from cycling is getting away from designated paths, planning my own routes, and appreciating the diversity of my home patch. In short, the freedom the ride wherever I wish.

I will describe a ride that encompasses the best the region has to offer the road cyclist. The ride starts and ends in my home town of Caerwys and includes three challenging hill climbs; it covers some 80 kilometres on relatively quiet roads. From Caerwys the rider navigates the narrow lanes through Babell and Lixwm, before crossing the A541 to Nannerch. It is from here that the first major hill climb begins: the road crosses the Clwydians from Nannerch to Llangwyfan. Cyclists from across the region and even north west England know the climb as ‘London Bridge’; I have never been able to find out why it is called this name. The climb from this direction is the easy way and the rider is soon recovers from the exertions of ‘London Bridge’ and is spinning along the Vale of Clwyd heading east towards Ruthin. The Vale of Clwyd with miles of quiet lanes and gently undulating terrain is perfect cycling country. After Llanbedr Dyffryn Clwyd a short section of the Mold to Ruthin road is required before re-joining the lanes towards Graigfachen and the next major hill climb. This, for me, is the most climb difficult on the ride. The climb is known as The Shelf. The name fits the hill: some steep sections then short plateaus to recover before changing down to the lowest gear on the bike for another lung busting ascent. Once the Shelf has been conquered the ride crosses the Llandegla moors descending through various lanes to the east of Nercwys to the town of Mold, the only urban part of the ride. Cake and coffee is plentiful in Mold. Once refreshed, the careful cyclist should avoid the Mold to Denbigh A541 road and instead plan the final leg of the ride over the Halkyn mountains and one more challenging hill climb. Leaving Mold, head towards Theatr Clwyd and through the village of Sychdyn and on to Northop. At the lights in Northop turn left on the old A55 passing the horticultural college and soon turn left onto Middle Mill Road. So begins the final climb of the ride, and this is my favourite. The foot of the climb is in pastoral Flintshire, but the top brings the rider onto mountain terrain scarred by centuries of lead mining. The remainder of this cycling odyssey is across the Halkyn hills down towards Brynford and the Franciscan friary at Pantasaph, before the easy last two or three miles back to Caerwys.

This description is not meant to be a detailed guide to a cycle ride, but rather an illustration of the type of cycling available to anyone wishing to explore this corner of our nation. A characteristic of this area is the way the scenery changes itself within only a few miles: the up-land farming of the Clwydian mountain range, the rich pastoral scenes of the Vale of Clwyd, the moorlands around Llandegla, and industrial heritage of the Halkyn mountains. The same diversity is true in cultural terms, with the southern section of the ride passing through still Welsh speaking communities, whereas the northern loop touches upon the anglicised settlements which geographically and culturally look towards the great city of Liverpool. The joy for me is that all of this can best be appreciated on the bicycle.

Thursday 25 August 2011

Everton 3 Sheffield United 1

Football on a summer's evening at Goodison.
So things are not quite so bad after all. Everton defeated Sheffield United with ease last night at Goodison Park. Mind you, being Everton, they made us endure the moments when Sheffield United went one nil up. Nevertheless Everton's class soon told and we were left with a rarity - not having to worry about the final outcome of the match. Only 17,000 witnessed the spectacle, but the blues played some attractive passing football that hopefully can be transferred to the premier league on Saturday. Ross Barkley, the teenage midfield player, could be Everton's sensation of the season.

Monday 22 August 2011

National Library of Wales

On a perfect summer's day I drove down earlier to the National Library of Wales in Aberystwyth. I have not been in the research rooms since the mid 1980s and they have changed a great deal; for a start technology has arrived as the catalogue is now fully electronic and there are computers everywhere. It is still though a splendid place to study.

It also has a strong link with Caerwys - Herbert Lewis of Plas Penucha (often referred to in this blog) campaigned for decades to see the establishment of a national library. He saw it as an important recognition of Welsh nationhood. Herbert Lewis' role was rewarded in 1926 when he was made honorary president of the National Library of Wales.

The main grand entrance is no longer used.

The building itself is in the art-deco/ classical Greece style that was popular between the wars. It is built from white portland stone and is situated above the town of Aberystwyth with a superb vista across Cardigan Bay. Today the sea was a perfect blue.

Look west young man.
My only quibble (and it is only a slight one)  is that the grand entrance is no longer used and the public are now ushered in through a side door. Somehow this reduces the sense of awe one gets when visiting this beautiful building.

Sunday 21 August 2011

In Search of England



The best book I have read this summer is 'In Search of England' by H.V.Morton. It is a travel book written as Morton motored around England in the 1920s. They were the days of care-free motoring, and the author blithely took which ever road took his fancy. The attraction of the book is that is gives us a glimpse at a world that for many had not become modernised; people were still intrigued at the sight of a motor car. Morton also wrote with immense skill; he viewed the world as a poet might. This is an extract from his first impression of Cornwall:

There is a strangeness about Cornwall. You feel it as soon as you cross the Tor Ferry.

The first sight that pleased me was a girl with a shingled head driving a cow with a crumpled horn. I knew, of course, that I was in fairyland! And the next thing was a village that was trying to climb a hill. One whitewashed cottage had reached the top, but the others had stuck half-way, with their gardens gazing in a rather surprised manner over their chimney-pots. In these lovely, disorderly gardens some of the oldest men I have ever seen had apparently taken root in the act of watching the bean-rows. 

(With thanks to VR for recommending this marvellous book)

Moel Famau and Hitler.

For the third time this year I climbed Moel Famau. By now I know the mountain pretty well, but today we reached the top via two new paths. The ascent is fairly straightforward along the edge of Frith mountain. Part of the route took alongside what looked like a Second World War air-raid shelter - it even had the classic 'Anderson' shape still clearly remaining. It begged the question as to why anyone would need an air-raid shelter half way up Moel Famau. It cannot have been anywhere near the top of Hitler's list of targets.

Not a good photograph; but the history of this building in the woods would be interesting.

Saturday 20 August 2011

Everton 0 Queens Park Rangers 1

Two years ago to the day I was at Goodison Park to see Everton hammered six one by Arsenal; today was in a similar vein. Despite a number of close efforts the blues failed to break down the visitors. Once they went in front QPR resolutely defended and the game ended to a loud chorus of boos. Everton were the better team and a bit of luck - like the Baines free kick being a fraction lower - and the mood would have been vastly different. However the home side did not look as well motivated as the Londoners, and few Everton fans had any complaint with the outcome. It could be a long season.

The Everton team warm up; that was as good as it got.

Hard times

It is said that during an economic down-turn the only growth area is in pawn shops. Today that may equate to the 'Money Shops' that appear on the high street; one has just popped up in Mold. They offer short term loans, buy gold, and sell foreign currency, but they are not Banks. I have a feeling that this cannot be a good thing.

The other economic activity that appears to be booming are the 'pseudo' 'legal' firms seeking to take on spurious  'blame' cases. I had a call the other day from one such company wanting to seek compensation on my behalf for the trauma I must have suffered as a result of my credit card company raising my limits without sufficient consultation. The man, who said it was my lucky day, claimed that the Financial Standards Authority had specifically asked him to help me gain rightful recompense for my suffering. Of course there is fun to be had here and on questioning this hapless young man did not know what the FSA did, or anything about my credit card (thankfully). The other cold calling scam involves seeking redress for even the most minor accident; I witnessed one yesterday over a slight car bump that took place a few years ago. Surely, they pleaded, there must have been some trauma, or even a few bruises.

These scams are hugely costly to everyone and impact upon the genuine claimants who have been abused by the rapacious financial sector, or injured through no fault of their own and need financial support as a result.

This type of activity merely reflect our own serious economic situation.

Monday 15 August 2011

Fighting the flab

On May 25th  I began to count calories. As I have noted in earlier blogs, I used an app on my phone called: http://www.myfitnesspal.com/   It allows me to count the calorific value of most foods fairly easily. The program then uses my height and current weight to set the number of calories I should consume each day; at the moment I am allowed 1920.

In addition the program allows to me to increase my daily calorie allowance through exercise. So, for example, if I cycle for an hour (as I did this morning) I gain around 800 calories. Today I have eaten well, including two cakes, one walnut whip, baked potato, burger, new potatoes, and Costa coffee. Oh yes, I nearly forgot, two glasses of wine as well.

I have followed this diet for around 80 days and have lost some 36lbs. I will surely put it all back on as I have done before, but counting calories does seem to work so far.

This amounts to some 13.5% of my body weight as measured in May.


Sunday 14 August 2011

Cor Meibion Caerwys says farewell to Liz.

After 5 years in post Liz Hughes is stepping down as Musical Director of Cor Meibion Caerwys. This afternoon in the golf club members of the choir met to say farewell and offer their thanks. Liz has significantly developed the choir during her time in command; she has also adapted many new pieces of music for a four part male voice choir. The highlight for me came during the National Eisteddfod held in Mold in 2007 when our choir competed in the prestigious Saturday competition. We did not win, or even come close to winning, but it was an amazing experience. Our visit to Kilkenny in Ireland to take part in the pan-celtic festival was another highlight of Liz's time as leader of the choir. In a week or so rehearsals start up again, but with a new musical director. Yet for today it is Diolch yn fawr Liz - you will be missed.

Liz receives gifts from the Chairman of the choir.

Performing on the street in down town Kilkenny.

Saturday 13 August 2011

First bike

I have always preferred bikes to cars. While looking through some old 35mm slides I came across a photograph of me riding my first proper bike; it was, as far as I can remember, a red Moulton. The company still exists making small wheeled bicycles. After that I progressed to a wonderful purple chopper. At university I did up a bike that managed to get me up many of the steepest hills in Bangor. However,I did not get my first 'serious' machine until the early 1990s when I bought a second hand Dawes Galaxy with the unbeatable 531 steel frame. Since then I have had other 531 and aluminium bikes, and even a tandem to cycle with the children when they were very young. Yet it was this small wheeled Moulton that gave me my first experience of cycling:

A portrait of the author as a young cyclist.


Friday 12 August 2011

Cycling Scarecrows in Llanasa

I had heard rumours of some very strange looking cyclists in Llanasa. On further investigation I was able to identify these suspicious looking riders:

There was straw coming out of his sleeves!
This poor lad had failed to deal with the steep hill into the village.
They were part of the excellent scarecrow festival that had taken place in the village a few days earlier. The people of the village had gone to a lot of trouble to create some very funny scarecrows; perhaps it is an idea that will catch on. I certainly enjoyed seeing them.

Thursday 11 August 2011

Rioting in North East Wales through the ages

This weeks riots have cast a bright (or harsh) light on British society. As I wrote in my previous blog, all riots have a cause. Earlier today I skim read a book on riots in North East Wales since the 16th century:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rioting-North-East-Wales-1536-1918-Jones/dp/1872424554
The book begins with a chronological list of riots that have taken place in the region. Each and everyone of them had a cause. For example, the tithe riots in Flintshire during the 1880s were as a result of Welsh speaking farmers being forced to pay a tax to support the 'alien' Church of England. The Mold Riots of 1869 were about conditions in the local coal mines. In fact the celebrity historian Dan Snow - who had studied riots - went out on the streets this week to get a greater understanding of the dynamics involved in such frightening and fast moving events. The point I am making is that the riots of this week will be studied and debated for months and years to come and eventually consensus will form around a particular or predominant cause. And then an attempt will be made to seek reconciliation within the communities.  History tells us that this process happens each time. Riot not revolution is the British way.

Tuesday 9 August 2011

Changing cars

Changing cars is a very distressing business. I put it off for as long as possible, but in the end (as with the dentist) one has to face up to it. Some people change cars like I do shirts, but not me. I get quite fond of my car, even the smells become reassuringly familiar. I don't have any interest in the cars themselves, as long as they get me to where I want to be; that makes picking a new one more tricky. So I have devised a plan in recent decades that means buying the same model of car each time. This involves very little thought; the colour is neither here nor there to me. So I have searched out another hugely unfashionable car that everyone but me hates. I feel rather proud of myself.

Called a Tepee. Cool.

Predicting a material riot.

The present distressing scenes of rioting and looting across the country are a particularly British phenomenon. Rioting in these lands has a long history, whereas revolution does not. From the Peasants' Revolt in 1371 to the present events, riots have taken place at regular intervals.

There is always a cause to a riot. In 1371 the peasants marched on London to protest against a range of economic grievances, including a poll tax that had been imposed on them by an unpopular king. In the centuries that followed poverty and injustice would often be the spark for riots; indeed in the late 1980s there would be another mass riot against another poll tax. Other causes (less noble, I suppose) were racial conflict and xenophobia, as seen against the Irish in the Victorian era and the race riots of the 1960s and 1970s.

The present riots were supposedly triggered by a police shooting, but that is not behind the mass rioting that has taken place these last few nights. Most of the media and politicians are describing it as simple opportunistic criminality, and they are probably right. However, there still must be a cause. What makes people seek to destroy their own community? These young people (nearly all male) have, it seems, no stake in their community, or care for its future. It is vandalism on a big scale.

If the problem is to be solved the question of deep alienation to society on the part of these individuals must be addressed. My feeling, based on some experience, is that a critical mass of young males together will provide the 'group security' to 'kick off' and riot. Yet rioting in Britain in 2011 is not about seeking redress of grievances for their community, rather it is an expression of individual frustration, and greed. The fact that the action takes place in groups should not makes us think it is a call for help on behalf of that community. Indeed, the targeting of high status shops such as sports wear and electronics (ignoring the book shops) makes these riots almost linked to our consumerist society.

History has judged some riots as noble expressions of discontent against an overbearing authority; I suspect that the judgement of these disturbances will be less favourable.

Hill of tears

During the last few weeks I have cycled a great deal; I have nearly reached my target set back on January 1st (see first blog of the year). Today as I puffed up the hills after Rhosesmor my legs were complaining more than usual. With so many cycle miles and a pretty severe diet I think I might have over done it. It was appropriate that my legs turned to jelly as I approached Moel y Crio (hill of tears in English). I managed to get home without incident, but tomorrow will be a cycle free day. I took this photograph and then manipulated it with photoshop to give an idea of what my eyes were seeing at that moment!


Thursday 4 August 2011

Well, hardly ever... (part two)

With the Buxton Gilbert and Sullivan Festival freshly in my mind I have looked my to my own experiences of performing in the choruses of these wonderful operettas. I have also reflected on why these productions are still so popular 100 years after W.S. Gilbert died. The Gilbert and Sullivan operettas are quintessentially  English, although they are performed around the world. The gentle parodying of national institutions and self deprecation seen in the Gilbert and Sullivan works forms the basis of English humour that can still be seen almost in the modern age with Dad's Army and Fawlty Towers. Yet beneath the often silly story lines of the operettas are some very serious messages about the nature of Victorian society, most commonly being the iniquities of the rigid class system (best seen in HMS Pinafore).

Above all these shows are still great fun. I fondly recall my instantly forgettable performances in Pirates of Penzance in the Bangor university production of 1986. I still have the programme signed by all the members of the cast and this rather torn newspaper cutting from the time.


Well, hardly ever...

The operettas written by Gilbert and Sullivan in the second half of the 19th century are not everyone's cup of tea. Yet since I was very young I have loved them. I first heard Pirates of Penzance on our old record player. The disc may even have been a 78. Then I recall seeing my Dad in the chorus of a number of productions done in Holywell High School. At university I joined the Gilbert and Sullivan society and had some of the best times performing in The Sorcerer, Pirates and Trial by Jury. Whenever there is a performance at theatre Clwyd I try to go (see earlier blogs).

This week I have taken my appreciation of these wonderful operettas a stage further by attending an International Gilbert and Sullivan Festival in the Peak District. The festival runs for three weeks with a new performance each evening. I first saw Trent Opera do a faultless production of Yeoman of the Guard. In the afternoons smaller productions - by youth groups - are held.  Yesterday evening I went to see Peak Opera performing HMS Pinafore. The production was truly fantastic. That is the extent of my initial visit to the festival. Needless to say, I will return, maybe next week.

The magnificent Buxton Opera House - home to the Gilbert and Sullivan Festival.

Monday 1 August 2011

Nowt so queer as folk

This weekend at the grand age of 47 I attended my first music festival. It was not exactly Glasto or Download, but the rather more genteel Cambridge Folk Festival, reassuring sponsored by the Cooperative Society and the Guardian. Nonetheless, it was a weekend of non-stop music and revelry - 14000 attended each day. Some people there looked as if they were born to attend festivals, but there were plenty of others relatively new to the scene, like me. The Cambridge Folk Festival has a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. There is plenty to do with three or four music stages, shops, and a range of places to eat. I am far from knowledgeable about music generally, but 'folk' music is a very broad genre, so there was something for most tastes. I enjoyed listening to English artists, such as Frank Turner and Kate Rusby, and Laura Marling. From the USA I especially enjoyed Justin Townes Earl. As for my favourite it had to be Newton Faulkener, with his astonishing guitar skills; then he did this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_k8_HSA1-o&feature=related

A view of the main arena: Cambridge Folk Festival 2011

Camp Caerwys

On the northern approaches to Caerwys some large summer camps have sprung up. These have become a feature of the summer holidays in recent years. They are mainly scout and church groups; it is wonderful to see them here making full use of the fields the farmer has carefully prepared. Caerwys has long been a magnet for summer visitors; of course there are the caravan camps that have become a feature of the town since the 1960s, but summer camps in Caerwys go back further still. In the 1930s the White River camp in Afonwen provided facilities for walkers and cyclists escaping the great cities. Yet even before the Great War Caerwys played host to summer visitors, yet these were not here to admire the countryside. Military manoeuvres were often held here in the early 20th century; some were on a vast scale with as many as 12000 soldiers taking part (see earlier blogs). This photograph, taken in 1909, shows a group of soldiers by their tents. Look carefully at them: they are professional soldiers and they could probably look after themselves fairly well.